This is something that I hear ALL to common. Someone will tell me their dog lunges and barks at Car/ Dog / Person/ Bike etc and when I ask them what they've already tried they tell me they ask the dog to sit til the Car/ Dog/Person/ Bike etc has gone passed ..... But this really the most effective way to handle this, or are we making it worse for our dogs?
Consider this.....
You walk into a room and in the middle of that room is your greatest fear! I bet your first reaction will be scream and try to run! Now, I want you to sit still and not look at it.
Do you think you can do it?
Do you think your anxiety levels would go UP or DOWN?
Hmm. Not so great huh? But, why?
Sit is a stationary behaviour and stationary behaviours increase anxiety.
Being asked to be stationary near something frightening gives our dogs an opportunity to stop and stare at whatever it is. This gives them time to build up aniticipation about what might happen and makes it harder for them to shift their focus away. Asking our dogs to sit near a trigger repeatedly can also make their Reactivity worse overall.
What is Fight or Flight?
Fight or Flight - which also includes Fiddle & Freeze Responses- an automatic physiological reaction to an event that is perceived as stressful or frightening. Meaning our bodies jump into these responses without our say so whenever something comes along that we feel frightening. Remember that fear is very individual and what you might think or know to be completely harmless, our dogs may perceive as a very real threat.
When Fight or Flight is engaged we might see things like Barking, Growling, Lunging, Hiding, Urination & Defecation (or a lack of those) , Crying, "Pancaking" or Flattening, Freezing still or a combination of these. Its important to know when your dog has gone into Fight or Flight and to know that this is no longer the time for training- no learning is occurring and its time to get outta dodge! Fight or Flight is also the reason why we see dogs who are often labelled as not being food, toy or treat motivated.
So, what do we do to avoid Fight or Flight?
Training should occur at a distance where the dog is comfortable. Able to see the Trigger either at a distance or only for short periods (initially both!) but not feel the need to react ie bark, lunge, hide etc. If your dog is currently unable to ignore those triggers and you need to ask him (or ask several times!) for him to sit and you can see that he is stressed in that sit- you are TO CLOSE! Its time to back up and move away.
What do we do then when we can't get distance?
Firstly, you need to avoid walking where you might see Triggers initially. This can feel like mission impossible if your dog wants to chase cars or bikes and you live in suburbia or the city. The key? Bush walks.
Do not let anyone tell you that you must walk your dog daily. If you can only manage 3 bush walks per week and that means your dog gets walks free from triggers- then thats what you're gonna do! On the other days, replace it with things like Sheep Balls or Dog Soccer. Your dog needs to do something everyday , but it does not need to be a walk. The mental load your dog is taking on by walking daily and seeing triggers frequently is not worth any physical benefits they might be getting.
If every time you leave your house, your dog reacts to a trigger, you will never get anywhere. Your dog needs time and space and to be introduced to these triggers slowly and systematically so we can work on their feelings about them FIRST. Then and only then do we reintroduce neighbourhood walks...
So, we're reintroducing neighbourhood walks- should I ask my dog to sit now?
I wouldn't recommend that. Instead, we should encourage our dogs to continue on like normal. You can cue them to let them know the trigger is there but we should be asking them to them do something like sniff or look at us rather than asking them to sit and watch the trigger and build themselves up. Almost treat it like a non event! Oh, there's a car? Cool. You've seen it? Great. Lets go sniff this pole or this bush on the side of the path furthest from the car. And now its gone? Great! Look at you go- being a dog near something scary- its time for a treat party.
If we always make a big deal out of triggers and we always ask our dogs to stop and watch their triggers- we will always feed their anxiety. Its time to encourage normal near triggers!
Should I ever tell my dog off for lunging at these triggers?
Absolutely not. If I told you off for screaming in a room full of spiders, do you think that would increase or decrease your anxiety? Do you think it would make you feel any better about the spiders? Of course not. This is not a behaviour that requires corrections or punishment. It needs compassion, understanding, an appropriate outlet and comfort & support as needed. Always choose kind.
Is this something you are struggling with?
Chasing Cars, Bikes, People, Dogs, Cats ,Wildlife, Flies and really anything that moves is super common in our herding dogs. We bred them to control movement- and they do it superbly. If you're struggling with movement control behaviours, reach out for help! You're not alone.
So, In Summary:
Do not ask for stationary behaviour near a trigger
Work at a distance with quick views of the trigger first
Use control & management to help your training
Use breed appropriate enrichment to provide your dog an outlet for their need to control movement
Teach your dog how to just be a dog near triggers
Don't make a big deal out of things
Reach out for help !
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